As our thoughts turn to warmer weather in Spring, people naturally anticipate their summer holidays or long weekends away. I wanted to share a great long weekend in Portmeirion back in late March 2022. Portmeirion is perhaps most famous as being the location of the 1967 cult TV series The Prisoner, and I could not think of a more idyllic location to be trapped for a short stay...
I have been to Portmeirion before for a day visit back in August 2021; but last Spring I decided to make a long weekend of it by staying at the resort, opting to stay for 2 nights at the 4* hotel, the Castell Deudraeth, which is just a five minute walk out of the main village of Portmeirion.
It was built as a Manor House in the 18th century, and castellated in the 1840s. When Clough William-Ellis, the designer of Portmeirion, acquired the property he envisaged it as a hotel for guests staying at Portmeirion, but for various reasons this did not happen during his lifetime, and it was not until 2001 that it was refurbished as a luxury hotel that his vision was realised.
Portmeirion takes on a completely different character for a short stay rather than as a day tourist. In the evening, it becomes a quiet, magical place: subtly lit and free of crowds it really does take on the illusion of a sleepy Italian village, helped enormously by Mediterranean-style weather during my stay, which made for wonderful photographs.
As well as being something of a photographer's paradise, it is now also very much a foodie's paradise too for those staying at the resort. Across my 3 day stay at the resort, I sampled dinner in the main hotel, dinner at the Castell Deudraeth, and afternoon tea back at the hotel. The head chef at the hotel is Mark Threadgill, who represented Wales in both 2022's & 2023's Great British Menu, and it really showed in his culinary creations. I opted for a sampler menu for the starters and steak for my main and the presentation and quality of both was outstanding. I'm sure that given his drive and ambition (his childhood wish was to be head chef @ Portmeirion) a Michelin Star will not be far away!
Similarly the afternoon tea was great and not overwhelming, which can often be the case with afternoon teas. Particularly memorable were the artisan sausage rolls and the chocolate bombe, which were both delicious. The venue is amazing too: the main Hotel has been loving restored to its Art Deco heyday and tea is served overlooking the estuary.
Dinner at the Castell was similarly good although not quite as fine as at the main hotel, which is reflected in the difference in prices. My take would be that the hotel is the fine dining option; whereas the Castell is more like a gastropub offering. A free shuttle bus runs between the main Hotel and Castell Deudraeth and those staying at the resort can dine at either location.
The rooms at the Castell were very large - almost like a suite and very clean and well appointed, with a mini kitchen, TV, fireplace and bathroom. Perhaps lacking in the atmosphere of the main hotel, but this reflects the nearly 100 years between the design of the interiors of the two hotels (1920s vs early Millennial). There is however a gorgeous fireplace as you enter which serves as a wonderful meeting point, or somewhere to have pre-dinner drinks against the backdrop of a roaring fire..
As for the village itself, it was spotlessly clean and looked very much like it had just been given a complete fresh coat of paint during the lockdown years of 2020-21. In late March, it wasn't overly busy during the day so there weren't the huge queues for some of the cafes that I did experience in peak season back in August 2021. In the evening, when the village closes to the general public , it takes on an atmosphere all of its own .. calm and tranquil and represents a great break, away from it all, tucked away in this quiet corner of Wales.
The village for the most part does represent a Northern Italian village (reputedly based on Portofino) including some of the trees and shrubbery to be found in that part of the world; although there are a few reminders of it's pre-Portmeirion makeover in terms of more standard cottages that do sometimes jar with the Mediterranean feel (so much so these had to be concealed during filming of Doctor Who's Masque of Mandragora back in 1975).
It is also worth pointing out that is a bookable wedding service venue, and I did see preparations for weddings at both the Castell & the town hall that weekend. What a wonderful backdrop for all those wedding photos...
As a day trip back in 2021 I must confess I found Portmeirion to be an almost completely different experience, however. Firstly, high summer was peak tourist season and the queues were often very long. Also, the dining options available to those staying at the resort are not open to the day visitor, and the food available in the cafes was disappointing (this was the same in 2022) - pre-packaged and standard fare. I also thought the souvenir shops were disappointing too - surely Portmeirion should be supporting independent local artisans , rather than generating a large carbon footprint by mass importing goods made in China? I struggled to find anything not made in China in the crafts & souvenir shop.
In closing, I think as a short break or long weekend this is a wonderful destination: especially if you appreciate good food, architecture, long walks or enjoy photography. It's a wonderful, tranquil location where you can really get away from the frantic pace of modern life in this quiet corner of Wales and sample some great Welsh cuisine.
